Venezia (Venice) feels important — its massive public structures and elegant private palazzi lining the canals show a city of tremendous wealth, power, and culture. It's a magnificent human achievement. On the other hand, tourists have been calling Venice a dead city for a century and a half. Henry James once wrote, "She exists only as a battered peep-show and bazaar." Only 70,000 people actually live in Venice, but if you're ever alone anywhere in the city for more than five minutes, consider yourself lucky. The crowds are unbelievable: Everywhere you go, someone is already there.